Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
Guest GTiRy0

What to look for when purchasing a GTI-R?

25 posts in this topic

Hi everyone!

Im in the process of looking for a GTiR. What should I be looking for?

Should I just pay a reputable mechanic or centre that run checkups and carry out engine compression test?!?.

Any feedback would be much appreciated !

Share this post


Link to post

Check the FOR SALE section here. Most members are quite dedicated about servicing their cars properly.

Share this post


Link to post

Would an NRMA inspection alone be good enough to decide on a purchase? Im in the process of looking at a particular one.

Share this post


Link to post

I wouldn't trust the NRMA inspection mate, if you want the inspection to end all inspections check the phone book for a group called SVC 'Sydney Vehicle Check'

Car yards absolutely hate these guys - they can find literally everything wrong with a car.

Share this post


Link to post

or like aaron said look threw our cars for sale they are well maintained and probably better then ANYTHING u'll find on the street

Share this post


Link to post

I agree with the other guys here. Most of the cars you find here, if they have a problem, get it fixed, and fixed pretty quickly. Anything broken is most often not just replaced, but upgraded, to be better than stock.

With any secondhand car you take a risk, but you will norrow that risk by atleast checking some out here first.

Good luck with your purchase mate

Share this post


Link to post

Well, the obvious stuff first...

Big stuff...

Compression test. Anything around the 140psi plus mark across all 4 is good.

Does it build boost ok, and hold boost into the hi rpm range... condition of turbo.

Does it change gears ok, and no noises coming from particular gears.

Second big stuff... (stuff you're going to replace anyway)

Brakes, thickness/condition of rotors.

Clutch, smoothness of pickup, age.

Starter motor, does it start quick or takes a few cranks.

Exhaust, is it new or upgraded? cause you want it to be.

State of suspension.. do you want to pay 2k for new stuff?

Little stuff....

Airfilter condition

plugs/leads condition

wheel bearings,

Brake pads - another $120

There's lots more, and it adds up. If the one you are looking at is already here and already owned in Aus, you'd want almost all those things already sorted. But if you're buying a fresh import, most of those thing will need doing by you.

peter

Share this post


Link to post

surely any remotely competent mechanic assessing a vehicle would do a compression test. If they dont ....... run!

Share this post


Link to post

As mentioned by the guys on here already tis is the best place to buy a GTI-R as the majority have been well looked after.

Also if you have a look at the galleries you can see what has been done to the cars etc. for example Mine and many others have posted pics and written alot about rebuilds etc. If you can pick one of these up then you laughing as you have more info about the cars than any service check can do.

Also take your own compression tester. If thats what you want to know and do the test yourself. Its not that hard and the tester costs roughly $40 from SuperCheap.

Its your hard earned cash as you mentioned.

Share this post


Link to post

you do realise SVC are a lot more expensive than the NRMA check don't you ?

You definitely get what you pay for though, just a heads up :)

ps. it costs nothing to ask the car yard if they would have any problems with SVC doing an inspection, one caryard i went to jumped up and down and said no..

i walked out - they obviously had something to hide.

Share this post


Link to post

hey im seriously think about gettin a gtir soon. is there any factory problems that they have? im talkin anything at all. see i bought an rs liberty and they r riddled with em. haha. cheers.

Share this post


Link to post

Like most cars. Drive as many as you can. So you get a good judge of a good and bad car.

Try to get one thats already had work done. as this will save money.

Make sure to take notice of the gearbox. This is a weak point of the car. Geearbox and clutch.

But again, drive as many as possible.

Share this post


Link to post

Buy according to condition, not to Km's. Performance parts are reasonably easy to get and are not overly expensive so it may be safer to buy a stocker over a modified car.

Share this post


Link to post

Lots of myths, so ask us anything you want to know.

Unlike most single make forums we aren't biased and will give you an honest answer.

They have there fair share of problems, but all cars do.

Take a few for a drive and its easy to pick out the good from the bad. Unfortunately there are a lot of bad ones out there. But the good ones will blow your mind

Or save yourself some time and buy mine!

(need a bigger car :cry: )

Share this post


Link to post

if the owner doesnt dribble on about the car "in a way that clearly means it was/is his first love" i'd be suss

if it was loved it should be in good nick

Share this post


Link to post

rust :)

rear wheel arches especially also underbody

but yeah as previously said test drive alot!!!!!

they all feel different

also as Glenn said buy according to condition not kms

Share this post


Link to post

again on the rust. rear wheel arches where the bumper joins the arch. Mine was bogged up there when i got it, all nice metal now :)

Share this post


Link to post

so just the rust and the gear box's. are they the only factory problems they have. im talkin any thing at all, eg rs libertys have dodgey lifers, factory coil packs get rooted, 2nd gear synchro goes, etc etc... o, and i will look around this time. the last 3 cars iv bought have been the first ones iv looked at. iv learned my lesson. thanks again.

Share this post


Link to post

hmm lets see what else i can add

*crappy power windows

*door hinges sagging

*old rubbers (no not that kind :P)

*roof rattle

*clutch pedal support bracket?? does it have one or is the pedal creaking

this list can go on and on with things to check out

best advice would usually be to buy off a forum member where most of these problems are already fixed

Share this post


Link to post

You won't get a definitive list but here are a few things that come to mind:

Right front headlight connector melted

Noisy lifters

Syncro 4th-5th

Drivers side door switch (power window operation)

Noisy roof liner

Pedal box cracked

air vents cracked/loose/broken

ABS not functioning (drive and confirm correct operation or put ABS into diag mode to confirm sensor operation)

Umbrella missing

Put ECU into test mode and check for fault codes

ACU compressor functions correctly (notoriously faulty. If owner says it just needs a regas and you are serious about buying the car then get them to have it gassed and confirm correct operation).

Left door central locking servo working.

Make sure that the rubber hose from the plenum to the wastegate actuator is connected. It should be routed through a metal tube on the intercooler bracket passenger side. This confirms you are not running unlimited boost.

Door seals can be cracked and are almost impossible to repair. They are also very expensive at Nissan.

Door hinges can sag and allow wind noise at 100kph. They are cheap to buy but a pain to fit.

They are a few things off the top of my head but the most important things are still the ones every car should have checked when purchasing (oil, leaks, interior condition, correct function of all electrics, noise at start-up from cold etc.). Happy hunting.

Share this post


Link to post

you can also make sure she gets into gear at high revs :)

as previously mentioned the list can be massive

if timing is set incorrectly itll run like a sack

u considering changing your mind on one yet :P

if you are serious on getting one see if you can find another owner or make friends with someone on here 2 check it out with you

alot of knowledge is helpful if a seller is trying to cover something up

Share this post


Link to post

Well they are around 15 years old now so you can expect to be doing maintinence work on it every now and then. if you arent ready to take a gamble on that you should think about gettin a cheap new 14990 jobby with a 3 year warranty and some peace of mind. but youll miss out on all the fun of getting to know your car really good and learning how to contort your body in strange ways to get to bolts, clips etc. :)

Share this post


Link to post

should maybe start out with your budget then add a few k

then factor in insurance and so on

do you wanna share with us your budget??

and we can go from there

Share this post


Link to post

Don't be too put off by the long list of possible problems- you'er obviously going to have some sort of issue with any car that is around 15 years old!

As the others have said just drive as many as you can before buying one- and make very good friends with a mechanic!

Share this post


Link to post

Your content will need to be approved by a moderator

Guest
You are commenting as a guest. If you have an account, please sign in.
Reply to this topic...

×   You have pasted content with formatting.   Remove formatting

Loading...
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0