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Guest The Arctopus

Help buying a Gti-R (deacceleration whine)

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Guest The Arctopus

Hi guys and girls,

Im new here and im looking for a Gti-R of my very own. Ive been around for a while but i think i found a really nice one. But... there is just one thing that is making me a little nervous and im really hoping with all your years of combined experiance advise me to avoid like the plague or buy.

Ok so I took this car for a test drive the other day and it was really nice. I mean its 20 years old and jaw dropping nice. Pretty standard on the mods, boost control, exhaust, bov. Think it was running about 10 pounds boost. Not standard 7 but not too nuts. With the exception of a rip in the rear seat (not big) a clicky drivers seat (want aftermarket anyway) and a crusty dash (the creator for dash mats) its pretty bloody A1.

Driving it was also sweet. No strange engine noise, gears felt solid and a nice exhaust note to boot!

But I noticed under deaccereration a very faint whine only under deacceleration mind you. It sounded like it was coming from the left front of the car. Like the foot well. Did it in second all gears it seemed. Now when I say faint I mean I have very good hearing so you would have to be really listening for it to notice.

Now I have never owned a all wheel drive car so im not sure if this is normal or not. If its not could you tell me what it could be? And also how much it could be to fix?

Sorry that the first post I have posted here is a question asking for help but hey if anyone will know it will be you guys plus I really dont want to buy a lemon. But how does?

Thanks in advance, you guys rock!

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Standard boost is 10.6psi, which is 5.5 on the stock [mmHg x100] gauge (the stock actuator is rated to about 7psi, and the restrictor in the signal line gets it up to the 10-and-a-halfish mark).

 

No way of accurately diagnosing a described sound like that online (even in person could be difficult).

Might be as simple as a CV joint or a wheel bearing, or something more significant like a diff or gearbox component.

Although even if there was no sound, you're still in the same boat buying an old used performance car (unknown condition, until you pull stuff apart yourself and confirm).

 

Fixing costs will depend on your level of DIY, risk taking, and required outcome...

 

These cars are at an age now where every purchase is a gamble.

 

Find the best underlying body you can. Everything else is fairly easily replaceable.

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Guest Kaine

Thanks for the advise mate.

I had a moto check done on another Gti-R. This one actually has a pretty good body, paint is great (for age) and its not a respray.

Only problem is the old SR could have some upper engine problems. Noise at idle and above, strongly suggesting there is a problem such as faulty HLAs ,worn camshafts etc. It also has an oil leak from the turbo, although the turbo had just been fitted and is band new. Its got about 176,000 on the clock.

If he wants $7500 for it what do you guys think would be a reasonable offer to him?

Im DIY up to a point but I must admit I feel much better paying a pro to do the job for me.

Again any advice is appreciated and thanks in advance.

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The GTI-R (54C) SR20DET does not have hydraulic lash adjusters, it has solid lifters.

 

If a leakdown test shows poor compression, and you are not experienced with engine assembly (and/or have contacts with access to machining tools), rebuild costs can easily reach several thousands (even when doing the basic remove/refit labour yourself).

 

An internal turbo oil leak could be as simple as a blown seal (rare when "new" if it's a reputable brand), but it may also be caused by significant blow-by, suggesting a larger issue with the engine.

 

Of course, the 54C is not known for it's whisper quietness, and if the compression is fine the noise may just be normal wear over 20 years and 170k (possibly exacerbated by simple things like a worn timing chain tensioner or poor oil choice/maintenance).

 

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