Jump to content


Photo

Prospective Owner FAQ


  • This topic is locked This topic is locked
No replies to this topic

#1 Admin

Admin

    Admin

Posted 05 October 2004 - 01:24 PM

Expensive to own?
Depends how you treat them, and how they've been treated in the past.

Price in Japan?
150-300k YEN at auction. Up to 500k YEN at private sale. (JAN 2012)

Import cost?
Cars from Japan cost around 5k AUD in fees/tax.

Compliance cost?
Around $2-4k AUD. Search for a RAW on the RAWS website for contact details.

Insurance?
Varies greatly. Online quotes can give an idea.

Fuel economy?
Factory specs are 13.2ltr/100km for "urban cycle". Owners report 12-16ltr/100kmh (300-400kms per 50ltr tank).

Fuel type?
The maps in the ECU are designed for Japanese fuel (100RON), so downgrading to 96RON can cause poor performance and detonation under high loads.
98RON is recommended with the stock ECU. An aftermarket replacement or piggyback can be remapped for any type of fuel.

Parts expensive?
Not any more than other 20yr old JDM performance cars.

Parts hard to get?
Not really.

Engine parts the same as other SR20DETs?
The RNN14 SR20DET (54C) is unique in many ways, and the vast majority of parts are not interchangeable.

Parts the same as the local N14?
Some. The list is wide and varied, but overall it is not that many, and mostly small things.

Gearboxes?
The engine can easily produce more power than the box can handle if abused. If the clutch is up to the task, the next in line is the box - abuse it and it will break. Aggressive launches are the biggest gearbox killer, followed by poor quality oils and poor maintenance. There are uprated gearsets designed and produced locally (PAR, PPG, Modena).

Understeer?
They are a front-heavy AWD, so understeer is natural. Suspension modifications, quality tyres and driving technique have shown they can be made quite neutral.

Interwarmer?
Overheating was a problem on the 300hp Group-A cars running a restrictor, whereas the production-based Group-N cars had no such troubles.
The factory intercooler works fine when the car is moving, but struggles at slow speeds in warmer weather.

Performance?
0-100kph: Owners have proven the 5 second bracket is easily attainable (stock or basic mods). Modified owners have records in the 3s.
0-400m: Best Motoring Video tests (and owner reports) show 0-400m in mid-high 13s is attainable in stock form. Modified owners have records in the 10s.

Crap ones?
Sadly, there are many uncared-for examples, but the SR20 engine is strong and the ecu programming is intelligent - so even when damaged they can appear to work ok. The biggest causes of poor performance are incorrect timing, old and damaged ignition system, and poor/incorrect fluids/filters.
There are a lot of examples which have been purchased by young drivers, abused for a few months, then sold cheaply when things start going wrong

What else?
A GTI-R is not just for Christmas. As with any old performance car, rewarding ownership requires enthusiasm, respect, care, attention and a steady income. The initial shock and awe wears off and they have the ability to suck bank accounts dry in the continuous search for MORE (reliability, power, handling, driveability, etc). Many things can fail and the resolution is not always apparent, or easily attainable. They can be downright frustrating and expensive to own (even with mechanical knowledge and the ability to do the work yourself). Without real passion for the marque you will struggle.

Still interested?
Researching early-90s Japanese performance cars (in & out of Oz) is highly recommended. Read the buyers guide. Visually inspect and test drive as many examples as possible.

Thanked by 4 Members:
TroyBoy, GTI-11R, Slippy, mccooke7719